The Isle of Skye in the Highlands of Scotland is one of those places, for me.

It’s not really a place where you’d find a list of “ten things to do on the Isle of Skye.” (Although I’m sure you can, if you look hard enough). When people ask what we did there, my favorite moments weren’t the “things.” When you add it up, it doesn’t actually sound like we did that much.

We drove and drove. We stopped at a few waterfalls. We found the ruins of an old castle. We visited a fancy castle museum.We stopped in a few pubs for various meals. We walked around cute little Portree, the capital city (aka town) of Skye. We stopped for many, many, many vistas and photo shoots. We tried to pet some sheep and some Highland cows. We got lost. We took an accidental hike (because research is for the faint of heart, and because that can be what happens when you use Instagram for location suggestions).

The hike to the Fairy Pools, when I thought I was “so pregnant.” 

We loved every minute.

We only took a few day trips to Skye from this little cabin we found in Plockton via Airbnb. Although I loved that little town and cabin, if we go back, we would definitely stay on the island itself–but book ahead because there are not many options!

the pubs on Skye! I mean, the fire, the food, the beer…perfect.

One thing I loved about Skye is that it kind of feels like the end of the earth–it’s not very easily accessed from any major cities–but the landscape feels otherworldly too. You can forget that people actually live there, and that sheep and cow haven’t taken it over for themselves, a la Animal Farm.

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again–the views will take your breath away. The green will almost hurt your eyes. The sun rarely comes out, but when it does, you will be dazzled by the colors that seem too intense to be true.

The Isle of Skye is one of those places that really is that beautiful, no editing required.

What are the places you can’t get out of your head? Read this post for another place I can’t forget :).

Linking up with Emma, Angie, Polly and Laura.

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E comes first–in early July. For his birthday, we took an amazing road trip around Scotland. (I wrote about our itinerary here!) We celebrated E’s birthday on the Isle of Mull, trying whisky and finding as much haggis as he could stuff himself with and wandering around the beautiful island. We ended the day with the best fish of my life, back in Oban, where we were staying.

I followed E to our 30s, in mid-August. This time, we didn’t get to fulfill any bucket-list trips, yet we have been traveling non-stop, it seems, since we arrived back in America. Although we did have airline vouchers that happened to expire on my birthday, the fact that I was about 7 months pregnant made the idea of being on a plane longer than 2 hours (and even that is a stretch, let me tell you) quite horrible. So we used our vouchers to visit the cheapest destination we hadn’t been: Charleston, South Carolina.

Besides Texas and the odd layover, I have never been to the South of the United States. In fact, I have never really been to the East Coast in general.

Turns out, I loved Charleston, despite the fairly unbearable heat and humidity. It is so, so picturesque, with adorable buildings and brightly colored walls and stately trees. We also got time on the beach, with sugar sand and near-bathwater temperatures. And THE FOOD. I think the South might have some of the best food in this country. Especially for a pregnant girl who really only wants all the comfort food (and fruit).

I admit, I struggled with turning thirty. Especially as my life looks absolutely nothing like I thought it would (and really, do I want it to? Should it? Does anyone’s?). However, it seemed harsh to have a big birthday like this when I was jobless, homeless, insurance-less (thanks for that one, America), oh, and did I mention pregnant? When you add turning 30, I think that’s a lot to handle for anyone.

Now that it’s been a month since I turned thirty, I am no longer homeless or jobless–and now that I actually am thirty, I feel…strangely relieved. Like, happy that the birthday is over and I can focus on other things. Weird, I know.

One of the things I’m focusing on is, as cliche as it sounds, the things that bring me joy. And one of these things is most definitely baking!

It’s now week 3 for the Bake Off Bake Along with Amanda.

And week 3 is…bread week! Always one of my favorites. (I mean, look at this gorgeous loaf I made last year!)

Sadly, I really wasn’t too inspired by bread week this year. Tea cakes, a cottage loaf, or a bread sculpture colored with natural ingredients? None of that immediately caught my fancy.

I have no idea what a tea cake is, blame America for that one, although I had never heard of a cottage loaf either. Since none of the bread sculptures seemed to taste all that delicious–and since I’m not actually on the bake-off, I probably care more about flavor than anything else–I decided to go for the cottage loaf. I love making bread from scratch like that! If you haven’t tried kneading the old-fashioned way, you really should. I swear its therapeutic!

I used this recipe, which seems to be a slightly Americanized version of a cottage loaf–and since my current measurement tools are cups, tablespoons and all that jazz, it worked for me!

My only issue with this bread was that it was slightly too dense–and I’m still enough of a bread novice to be unclear why. I suspect it was that I needed to knead it longer–or that I didn’t bake it long enough. Or it could just be the high altitude here in Montana which is always an easy culprit to blame ;).

Again rustic, but rather pretty, no?

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After leaving Budapest and coming back to the United States (for now), E and I knew we needed one more road trip before saying adieu to Europe.

The timeline also lined up with E’s 30th birthday, so we ended up taking one of his “dream vacations,” a road trip through the Scottish Highlands.

Since we had spent close to a week in Edinburgh in the past, we decided to hit the road immediately upon our arrival to better focus on the Highlands. Here is our itinerary, with this disclaimer–I wouldn’t change a thing. Seriously. It was one of our best. trips. ever.

p.s. This itinerary was difficult to detail, as well, because it doesn’t include the many unplanned stops in small towns for tea or food or views…but I’ve covered the highlights!

OBAN via Luss–Two nights

We drove to Oban from the Edinburgh airport, taking the scenic route along Loch Lomond and stopping at the truly charming village of Luss, as well as several old sites and waterfalls along the way (seriously, Scotland is the best). We used Oban more as a base for exploring the area–see below–but it’s such a nice town right on the coast! With amazing seafood.

DAY TRIP FROM OBAN: Isle of Mull

We took the ferry from Oban (without our car) to the Isle of Mull for one day, visiting the ridiculously adorable town of Tobermory for whisky, haggis, and more. Since we were reliant on bus schedules that day, we didn’t see much of the island–but the ferry ride there and back sure is a treat!

LOCH NESS via Fort William and the Glenfinnan Viaduct–One night

We left Oban early to visit the outdoorsy town of Fort William, and to get to the famous Glenfinnan Viaduct (Harry Potter fans should know what I’m talking about!) to see the Jacobite Steam Train (aka Hogwarts Express) travel across the bridge. Of course, we timed it poorly and missed the train–but we still took a little hike right to the train bridge anyway.

We traveled on to the tiny village of Foyers for this truly unique Airbnb. One of the best parts is the location, right on Loch Ness. Gotta be in a prime spot for a glimpse of Nessie ;).

PLOCKTON via Eilean Donan Castle–Four nights

One thing about Scotland is that it’s not cheap, and even though it didn’t feel crowded, the best rooms get booked up quickly in the summer. When we saw a cancellation for this little cottage, we jumped on the chance to stay there for as long as we could–to save some money and time. I’m so glad we did, as we fell in love with the tiny little house and the tiny village of Plockton.

On our way to Plockton, we happened upon the famous Eilean Donan Castle, an absolute must-see if you go to the area! It’s just iconic Scotland, don’t you agree?

DAY TRIPS FROM PLOCKTON: Isle of Skye (two days), Applecross (one day)

We used Plockton as a base to visit Isle of Skye–originally because the entire island was booked months in advance–and then we loved the island so much we ended up taking two day trips there. We also drove over an incredible mountain pass to the lovely village of Applecross.

From Plockton, we took a long trek (with quite a few stops) back to a hotel near the Edinburgh airport, where we stayed one night before flying out to Iceland early the next morning.

Our route didn’t always make the most sense, and there were spots we missed because THERE IS JUST NEVER ENOUGH TIME, but this road trip to Scotland was one of our top experiences in Europe! The food, the scenery, the people…it just doesn’t get much better.

WANT MORE ROAD TRIP IDEAS? 

Western Ireland Road Trip // Romania Road Trip // High Tatras (Slovakia) Road Trip

Linking up with Wanderful Wednesday and Faraway Files. 

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A lot.

I cried when I heard the story of the song, I cried when our tour guide played the song (all three times), and I cried when I saw the lake and sang it to myself.

Although the original composer of Scotland’s most famous song is unknown (and there are a lot of theories about how the song originated), the story our guide told us goes like this: two Scottish brothers were caught red-handed in England. They were both sentenced to death, however, eventually the English softened and changed the sentence: they would let one of the brothers go, while the other one would die for the crimes. The catch? The brothers had to decide who would be the one to die, and who would be the one to be set free.

This difficult decision was eventually made, and as the brother walked away, leaving the other to die, he heard this:

“Oh, ye’ll tak’ the high road, and I’ll tak’ the low road,                                                                                                                                                                       And I’ll get to Scotland afore ye;                                                                                                                                                                                                               But me and my true love will never meet again                                                                                                                                                                                            On the bonnie, bonnie banks o’ Loch Lomond.”

As we wandered along the edge of the loch, I could imagine the dead brother’s lover, waiting for him to never return, possibly looking out over the water, just as I was. I could imagine the surviving brother, haunted by these words the rest of his life.

Loch Lomond was the Scotland I’d always dreamed to see, complete with the history, the loyalty, the beauty, the tragedy, and even the magic.

I dare you not to cry, with the song dancing through your mind, as you stand on those very bonnie banks.

Have you ever visited a place that made you cry?

This post was originally published, in a slightly shorter, different form, in 2014. 

Linking up with Travel Tuesday.

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Now there’s a joke in Scotland that we get four seasons in a day. I say it’s a joke but it’s quite often true; we can experience rain, snow, wind and sun all within the same day, sometimes the same hour! However when the seasons are right, Scotland is an incredible place year round and I have included my top picks for each season.

Spring
Generally the most calm season here, spring time is when we often get the nicest weather and the days are starting to get longer. It can however still be quite cold and of course rainy and it has been known to snow as far south as Edinburgh in April before.

Gardens

Spring is the perfect time to visit the beautiful gardens on offer throughout the country. Three of my favourites are in Edinburgh. Dr Neil’s Garden, Royal Botanic Gardens and Lauriston Gardens.

Dr Neil’s garden is a beautiful garden, known in Edinburgh (only by the few that know it) as the secret garden. Situated on Duddingston loch (a Scottish lake), this garden is beautiful in the spring as the flowers come to full bloom. You’ll often be lucky enough to have this garden to yourself so take a picnic and enjoy gazing out to the loch on one of the many benched.

Royal Highland Show



June is a huge month for foodie festivals in Scotland. My favourite of these is the Royal Highland Show which takes place every year just outside Edinburgh. It’s more of a farming festival so it has a truly Scottish feel with animals to look at as well as delicious food stalls.

West Highland Way

The West Highland Way is a famous walk starting in Milngavie just north of Glasgow, and finishing 100 miles later in Fort William. Walking through beautiful scenery it is the best way to experience Scotland and this has been on my list ever since I walked the Camino de Santiago in Spain. Late spring is the best time to do this walk as you will hopefully get dry weather (although do see my note above, it has been known to snow in April) but before the midges (tiny biting inspects) start in the summer. If you don’t fancy the whole 100 miles, you can stop and start from the various locations.

Summer
Definitely the busiest time to visit Scotland and probably the most expensive. However the days are long, with the sun rising about 4am and setting about 10pm on the longest day of the year. Prepare to carry an umbrella for those summer showers, are you seeing the pattern here yet?

Edinburgh Fringe festival

The Edinburgh Fringe festival is a huge comedy and arts festival. Taking over Edinburgh in the month of August you can catch some street performers, a comedy show or sample food from the stalls set up in the city. While it’s the most expensive time to visit Edinburgh it’s definitely worth it for the buzz in the city. Every day finishes with the Edinburgh Military Tattoo, a show of military bands and performers which finishes with a fantastic firework display (my favourite part).

Bute


All up the west coast of Scotland the islands have the most glorious beaches. For a trip close to the mainland try Bute, an island about an hour and a half away from the city centre of Glasgow. Get the ferry from Wemyss Bay to Rothesay and drive to the west side of the island for lots of amazing beaches such as Scalpsie Bay – even I have a hard time believing that is in Scotland.

Bring a picnic and enjoy the (hopefully) nice weather.

Villages of Scotland


Summer is by far my favourite time to visit some of the pretty villages and seaside ports in the Scottish lowlands. My top picks are Pitlochry, Anstruther (be sure to get a portion of fish and chips from the famous cafe) and Crinnan with its beautiful canal.

If you do stop in Pitlochry, make sure you visit Edradour, the country’s smallest whisky distillery for a tour and whisky tasting!

Autumn
I would struggle to choose a favourite season between spring and autumn. While the spring flowers are beautiful the gorgeous autumnal colours of woodlands are hard to beat! Although the weather is often miserable! Forget the umbrella, it’s too windy! But catch it on a clear, brisk day and it’s beautiful.

Benmore botanic gardens


These gardens, run by the Royal Botanic Gardens of Edinburgh, are beautiful all year round but especially stunning in the autumn when the trees turn beautiful shades of red, amber and yellow.

Drive up Loch Eck and the argyle forest to experience the beauty of Scotland in the autumn.
Note: the gardens are closed November – February but you can still enter free of charge, there just isn’t as much to see.

Enchanted forest and Loch Faskally
Every October, the forests in Pitlochry transform into an enchanted show of lights and sounds. Tickets go on sale in June and fill up quickly, with multiple shows throughout October you should easily be able to grab tickets. I have to admit I’ve still never been myself but I have heard great things from those that have made it along. Before heading to the show, check out Loch Faskally in Pitlochry for some more stunning autumnal scenes.

Falls of Shin
Over the months of April to September it is Scottish salmon season. Towards the end of the season, the salmon swim up river to reach the top to breed. Head to the waterfall at the Falls of Shin and you may be lucky enough to see salmon leaping up. It becomes a bit exciting as you start to cheer them on. Note: the visitor centre has closed due to a fire but the waterfalls are still accessible.

Winter
As expected weather conditions in winter go down a little, snow isn’t guaranteed, especially in the southern areas but often that means damp and wet winters instead of pretty snowy scenes with blue skies. The days are remarkably shorter with the sun rising at 9am and setting about 4pm. The low sun does make for beautiful photographs however with the so-called golden hour turning into the golden day.

Skiing in the Cairngorms


A huge national park in the north of Scotland, the Cairngorms is a fantastic place to head to for some skiing. It does get very busy so make sure you book a ticket up the slopes. If you are not a fan of skiing, head to Aviemore and visit the Rothiemurchus estate. There’s plenty to do from seeing reindeer, to sledging and just enjoying a coffee in a cosy little cafe.

I love loch Morlich, which if the weather is cold enough is often frozen over and looks simply beautiful.

Edinburgh Christmas market



If you are in Edinburgh over Christmas, the Christmas markets are definitely worth a visit. Sample lots of delicious treats such as mulled wine, haggis rolls and mini pancakes covered in chocolate sauce. There is also an outdoor ice skating rink set up every year. You can also pick up lots of Christmas gifts for friends. Stay and see in the new year at the famous Hogmanay (Scottish for last day of the year) celebrations. Whether you want to join in the famous street party or watch the fireworks from one of the many view points (check out Calton Hill or Blackford Hill), the city has a real buzz at this time of the year.

Glencoe

The Glencoe valley is a must for any time of the year but it looks especially beautiful in the winter with the snow-capped peaks.

Drive down to the King’s Hotel or down Glen Etive and you may be lucky to spot some majestic stags by the side of the road as they come down from the snow-covered mountains to find food.
Note: if you are fortunate enough to see some deer please remember these are wild animals, please also take great care driving in the dark. Glencoe is famous for walking but during the harsh conditions in winter it is only recommended for experienced walkers.

For more, follow along at…
My blog: http://www.agirlandherhome.com
Instagram: http://www.instagram.com/agirlandherhome
Bloglovin: https://www.bloglovin.com/blogs/a-girl-her-home-12628023

See the rest of the Around the World series, from Panama to Egypt to Ecuador to California, here. 

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Scotland enchanted me from the first glance. E had been there before me, and had talked it up so much, I was pretty scared I wouldn’t love it as much as he did. Luckily, he knows me well, and I was so happy I loved it too. Edinburgh is by the coast, it’s where Harry Potter was created, it has this gorgeous castle and fascinating Old Town…I don’t know why I was concerned (except that’s just me, baby).

Scotland is at the top of my “must-return” list, especially the rest of the country besides Edinburgh. We took a quick day trip to see Stirling Castle, Loch Lomond and taste some whisky, but I’d love to rent a car and roam the country to my heart’s content. There’s just something magical and mysterious about Scotland that I can’t wait to experience more.

Linking up with Instagram Travel Thursday.

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Not too far outside of both Glasgow and Edinburgh lies the charming, historic town of Stirling. Since it’s Scotland, it certainly wouldn’t be quite as charming if there wasn’t a castle to go along with it.

And some castle it was! The views from Stirling Castle were some of the best in Scotland, probably (although this is only my second castle so don’t hold me to that!). It was green, green, everywhere, which is one of my very favorite things.

We could see the castle way off in the distance–it sort of pops out of the green landscape.

Stirling is also famous because it’s the location of William Wallace’s famous Battle for Stirling Bridge during the Wars for Scottish Independence in the 1300s (think Braveheart and Mel Gibson). There is a present-day Stirling Bridge although unfortunately it’s not the exact same one.

We were lucky with the weather. Although it was a little cloudy, cool and windy, the gray colors just made it greener.

Since it was a quick stop, we only explored the castle and the grounds, including a cemetery nearby. Tell me somebody else loves cemeteries? Maybe that’s a little creepy, but they’re calm, quiet, and pretty, and I love finding ancient ones, like the one near Stirling Castle. The rest of the town looks really cute, too, and I think it would make a great day trip. Since I love little towns like this, I would probably want to stay another night or two and wander the adorable little alleys. It’s definitely worth a visit if you make it.

^I snapped a photo with my phone as we arrived. You can see this castle from everywhere!

^see that hilltop castle? and that green?

^me and my favorite travel buddy

^and this is what happens when you take selfies in the wind. This is real life, people!

^William Wallace!

^the ancient castle cemetery.

^I found a knight in shining armor! He was the strong, silent type.

^the queen’s chairs.

^I really liked this cemetery.

^squeezing through the tiny doors.

^is it annoying if I keep talking about how green it is?

^deep contemplation of the view.

^enjoying the walk on the castle walls.

^spot the Wallace monument in the distance?

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When we visited Scotland, we knew we needed to go on at least one scotch whisky tour. It’s Scotland, after all!

We chose the Glengoyne Distillery, as part of another tour (that included Stirling and Loch Lomond), partly due to its proximity to Edinburgh. We, as usual, were short on time, but I am so, so happy we decided to do this tour. I was actually more interested in the tour than I thought I would be–whisky is more up E’s alley than mine, usually, although my drink of choice is often a whisky ginger–but with free tastings, beautiful scenery, and a funny guide, what’s not to like?

We toured the entire property, learned about the water that goes into the whisky, and visited every room to discover each step of the process. I finally learned what “single malt whisky” means (that all of the whisky comes from one malt in a single distillery…apparently distilleries often blend their scotch) and that each whisky is named after the region in which it is produced: So Glengoyne is technically Glengoyne Highland (region) Single Malt Whisky. Kind of wordy, but it’s totally worth it. I also learned that in Scotland, it’s “whisky,” and Ireland is “whiskey.” Don’t forget to add or subtract the “e,” my friends, because it matters.

I can’t say that I have much of a refined palate when it comes to whisky (remember how I usually mix it with, um, ginger ale?), but when that whisky is old enough to drink itself, you can really taste the difference. It goes down smooth.

Now, we want to go back and explore other areas that produce whiskey and other types of whisky. Apparently you can do entire whisky tours of the country…it might be fun to do a Whisky/Castle Tour, am I right? Throw in some snacks and I’ll be a happy girl (another reason I would love to road trip in the Highlands!).

^Isn’t the distillery so…Scottish?

^gosh I miss green things.

^the water from which springs the glorious nectar that is whisky.

^our tour started in the gorgeous, classic rooms of the distillery. Can I live here for a while, please?

^part of the tour included views of each part of the process.

^how awesome is our tour guide? you can tell just by looking at him.

^where they age the whisky, although these are mostly decorative. Some of the whisky is from sherry-aged barrels, meaning they bought barrels of sherry that weren’t palatable and used the same casks for whisky.

^this is where they sell you the good stuff. and where you can taste the good stuff, if you pay an extra fee (for the really good stuff, I mean).

^he’s a true taster, using the nose and everything!

^so happy. I was pretty happy, too, which is why it is a little blurry.

^the really, really good stuff…so good it gets its own lighting display…and needs its own down payment.

I’m linking up once again with Bonnie, Tina and Melanie for Travel Tuesday!

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