Moravia, Czech Republic

Before we moved to the Czech Republic, I assumed it was all about the beer. Bohemia, the region of the country that holds Prague, the Czech Republic’s most famous city, is certainly all about that beer, so it makes sense that many a tourist doesn’t know much about Czech wine. Or that even such a thing exists, as I mentioned above!

Well, I’m here to tell you, Czech wine certainly shouldn’t be forgotten when visiting the country. Even better, if you have the time, a visit to Mikulov, the capital of Moravia, the primary Czech wine region, is delightful. If you go in the autumn, make sure to try some burčak, Czech “young wine” that is delicious and deceivingly strong.

Eger, Hungary

Eger is a must for any wine-lover when visiting Hungary. Only about two hours away from Budapest via train, Eger has a wine valley, known in English as the “Valley of Beautiful Women.” We visited Eger a few times because the valley has over a dozen little family wineries built into the hillside. So, you walk around, hopping from wine cellar to wine cellar and tasting some of the most delicious wine I’ve ever had–at insane prices. Wine tasting in Eger is one of my favorite experiences in all of Europe!

Tokaj, Hungary

Excuse me for the bit of last-place-I-lived favoritism, but the wine in Hungary is just that amazing! While Eger wins my favorite thanks to its red bulls-blood and I am all about the reds, Tokaj produces the best dessert wine around. The Tokaj region also happens to be on Lake Balaton, the largest inland lake in Europe and a gorgeous little spot! I mostly drank Tokaj in Budapest but the region itself is worth a visit.

Santorini, Greece

The wind is so strong in Santorini that they have different ways of growing the vines, which looks weird but helps produce amazing grapes, helped along by the famously volcanic soil. Like all of the other produce we tried on the island, the grapes are slightly sweeter. Make sure to get the local moussaka with your glass of wine, as well–Santorini eggplant is the best in the world, I’m telling ya!

Central & South Dalmatia, Croatia

Croatia is full of great wine regions, or so I’ve heard, but the only one I’ve personally experienced is in the south, on the islands of Korčula and Hvar. We tried so many bottles of wine on Korčula our host asked if we were having a party! Cue shame face…

Brda Region, Slovenia

We were privileged enough to tour the Brda region in Slovenia with Slocally after a night in their Herbal Rooms Homestay. It was bliss! We visited small, family run wineries and tried the new “hipster” wine–an orange wine! We wandered among the many colorful, autumn-themed vineyards. It was a foggy day but that just added to the atmosphere. The region is also full of cute little towns, like Šmartno, and well-worth a visit. This region is on the border of Slovenia and Italy, so it feels sort of like a mini-Tuscany, but with its own Slovene flavor.

Pelagonia-Polog, Macedonia

We didn’t tour this region of Macedonia while there (partly because I was pregnant at the time) but were able to taste several wines from this region. I knew nothing about Macedonia or its wine before we went, and I was pleasantly surprised!

Do you have some favorite off-the-beaten path wine regions? Share in the comments! 

The post 7 Unique Wine Countries in Europe appeared first on Amy and the Great World.

Christmas in Europe, however, doesn’t have this rule. In addition, in case you haven’t heard, Christmas in Europe is completely magical. The only thing missing tends to be snow, depending on where you are (my hometown in Montana definitely wins on the snow front!). But, Europe has Christmas markets so…maybe it still wins ;).

I’ve been lucky enough to spend several Christmases in Europe, and very spoiled to visit quite a few markets over those years. Here are a few of my favorites!

Budapest

I had to give a shout out to my former home, of course! There are markets all over the city, some catered more to tourists, and some catered more to locals.

Cologne

Cologne, and Germany in general, might be the king of Christmas markets. There are no less than seven markets scattered throughout the city, each with a different theme. My favorite was the gnome-themed market, but the one by the famous Cologne Cathedral is a must-see, too!

Bruges

Bruges is wonderful any time of year, but Christmas is especially wonderful! The market there is tiny, but the whole city really feels like a Christmas market.

Prague

I couldn’t make this list without including Prague, of course! Prague is even more fairy tale-esque at Christmas, if you can imagine. There are a few Christmas markets scattered across the city, but my favorite is the one in Old Town Square, because you just can’t beat that ambiance!

Frankfurt  

We met our friends last year in Frankfurt and I didn’t have very high hopes for some reason–but the Christmas market we went to there, in the old square, was delightful!

Nuremberg

Nuremberg might be one of Germany’s most famous, and while it isn’t my favorite, the city is pretty much taken over by Christmas and it’s so fun to visit!

Brussels

Brussels also has quite a few markets scattered over the city, but really the best part is the light show in the Grand-Place, if you ask me! And watching with a waffle in hand…even better.

This week was also the final week of the Bake Along Bake Off with Amanda! I used this chance to….make more bread. Surprise! I didn’t have a really good bread bake this year, although this week was okay, and the signature challenge for the final week was three different types of rolls.

I’m going to play the pregnancy card (again) and let you know that I only made one type of roll. I mean, I’m nine months pregnant here!

The rolls I did make, though, using this recipe, Braided Brioche Rolls, were amazing!

And absolutely, totally informal, as Mary Berry would say.

I think it was cold in our house because they didn’t rise very much–until they exploded in the oven that is!

One (out of six…) of the rolls turned out fairly neatly, and became the star of the show. Still, the rest were equally delicious!

I can’t believe it’s my last bake for this year! And that this is my second year in a row participating. Some of my best bakes over the past two years: these cream puffs, this pizza, these tiny chocolate cakes, my first spun sugar, this amazing bread, and my pumpkin cake!

The best thing about the baking challenge is getting back in the kitchen–baking is so relaxing and creative. Also, it’s been my major form of nesting–our freezer is stuffed with baked goods for after baby ;).

Here’s to more baking the rest of this year, and next year!

The post Top Christmas Markets in Europe + Bake Off Bake Along Week 10 appeared first on Amy and the Great World.

If you can’t read German or have never seen a pregnancy test, the above photo might be confusing…

but to confirm,

YES, I am pregnant!

(And for some reason, at first, here in Budapest we could only find German pregnancy tests).

I announced the news yesterday on Instagram and was overwhelmed by the love and excitement E and I received from all over the world! This is one lucky little babe already.

I am just over 16 weeks pregnant–the baby is expected to arrive at the end of November, around Thanksgiving (in America, anyways). Which means we exclusively refer to it with all the fall fruits and foods we can think of, including Lil Turkey.

Anyway, that’s why it’s been so quiet around here! I can’t believe my last post was in APRIL!!

Mostly the radio silence is because the first trimester left me nearly comatose every day. The fatigue and morning sickness (or, all-day sickness, really???) really threw me for a loop. I was so nauseous all the time, that some clothes I wore during that time make me feel ill. Our spring break trip to Macedonia–two days after we found out I was pregnant–is still hard for me to think about, even though it’s a beautiful country. I just feel sick again at the memory!

Add the “morning” sickness and fatigue to teaching every day?? I practically had to crawl home and not move again once I got there.

Tomorrow is the last day of school (so many feelings!!) and while I love my job and my students, I am so grateful for a break. I do not understand how teachers teach until right before they have the baby.

^^one of my first-graders drew this picture of future me…pregnant and in London. Apparently he thinks I’m British, ha! 

Although I shared not long ago that we would be staying for another year in Hungary, after our little surprise turkey news, E and I decided that going back to the States–for the time being–would be better for us.

There are a few reasons for this:

First, family! It would be nice to be a little closer to at least ONE member of our family when our little babe arrives.

Secondly, the healthcare here is decent–dare I say better than in most of America, unfortunately?–but even at the private clinic we go to, there is quite a language barrier. We always have to furiously Google both during AND after the appointments to figure out what exactly is happening. There is also a protocol in Hungary (and perhaps in the States?? I’ll find out soon!) for prenatal care, and with the language barrier, half the time I’m not even sure why they’re taking my blood or giving me another ultrasound. Since it’s my first pregnancy, I’m a bit of a hypochondriac, and I already had a small complication at the beginning of the pregnancy, I really want a doctor who can help me understand my pregnancy and baby.

Another reason we are leaving is because our visas are tied to my job here–and since I would get at least a year or so off with maternity leave, this would also impact our visas and make it harder to stay.

Another minor issue? Even if we did have the baby here, it wouldn’t have Hungarian citizenship since we are both American–a perk I did want to give my child, but doesn’t seem to be happening this time around :).

So, what’s next?

Next, my parents come to visit–they arrive TOMORROW, in fact!–and we are going to Poland! After they leave, E and I will be traveling some–Lviv in Ukraine, Amsterdam, Scotland and Iceland, to be exact!

That will take us into the middle of July, and we’ll fly back to the States then. We’ll stay with my parents for a few weeks, and then…who knows!

A big fat question mark is still in my mind about where exactly we are going to have this baby and what we’re going to do. I’m planning on teaching online for the rest of my pregnancy and then taking time off to enjoy my new baby before getting another job. E, who works for himself from home, will probably find a more full-time (but hopefully still remote!) job that will give us benefits (because healthcare, besides the English thing, is NOT A PERK OF MOVING BACK TO THE UNITED STATES).

But really, we have no idea what will come next.

And that goes for parenting!

Truthfully, my first trimester was so rough, emotionally and physically, and my pregnancy was quite a surprise–and along with the fact that we have to leave my beloved Europe–I have been so up and down about this new adventure of ours.

Now that I’m feeling a bit better, with a summer of family and travel is ahead of us, and now that I even have a little baby bump!, it feels more real and more exciting.

I am so excited to show our little one the world! We hope to live abroad again and give our child that experience, but first we will have to adjust to being parents. Whoa!

I hope you’ll join me for this next chapter in our lives, too :). Thank you so much to everyone who has reached out and shared their excitement with both me and E–it means so much to us!

Do you have any questions about my pregnancy? Do you travel/live abroad with a child? Share your wisdom!  

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// Finally getting this post out on the last day of March…I’m nothing if not a procrastinator.

// I have to say…March is one of those months I’m rather ambivalent about, especially now that my spring break tends to be in April. Growing up in the Rocky Mountains, March was always kind of a gross month. It’s been pretty gorgeous here in Budapest, though!

// Speaking of…spring is here! I love winter so much, but European springs are what springs are made of.

// I took part in the Women’s March here in Budapest. I’ve read so many mixed reviews of the march and what it means and why people loved/hated it, but I will say that it was a great day, at least here in Budapest. A long line of women, men, immigrants, and natives all made a human chain across the Chain Bridge. If nothing else, I felt inspired by the people I met/was with and hopeful about the future, if only for a few hours.

// I had a horrible attack of the flu this year, in the middle of a month-long cold (thank you, January and February) and I thought I might die. Not dramatic at all. Of course, I got sick just a few days before we were going to Stockholm…so it ended up being a slower weekend than planned. Still a good one, though!

// As a result of said illness, I’ve been to the doctor several times in the past few months. I went to a pricey foreign doctor who was useless–and then when I mentioned this to the vice-principal at school, she suddenly swept me off to her doctor (who happens to be next door to the school…so much more convenient, although the language barrier is a thing). I was already feeling better and didn’t want to go to the doctor, but…I guess that’s now how it works!

// Along these lines, I am so not okay with the Hungarians and their casual approach to nudity. I find it refreshing but at the same time, I just cannot get used to it. I go to the same gym as my boss and let’s just say, having a conversation with your boss when she’s casually topless is a true test of my awkwardness.

// Before The Illness really struck, E and I went to a cooking class at Chef Parade here in Budapest. I gifted him a French cooking class for Christmas (mostly because they were making a French version of mac’n’cheese, his favorite) and it was fun, informative, and delicious! Our main goal was to learn a new dish we could incorporate into our lives, and the chicken we made was tasty, easy, and healthy(ish).

// Two weeks until spring break! We are going to…drumroll please…Macedonia! I’m having a really hard time finding anything about this little country, so hit me up if you’ve been with some advice! It looks really beautiful, and I’m pretty excited.

source

// My sister is coming to visit in May! To say I’m thrilled would be an understatement. She’s never been to Europe! My list is huge and too ambitious for when she visits…but I have faith.

this remains my favorite photo of my dear sister.

// The kids are dabbing. All day everyday. It’s simultaneously adorable, hilarious…and annoying. Is it really necessary to dab to the A-B-Cs, children?! It’s probably most annoying when they’re supposed to be working and they do it behind my back, thinking I won’t catch them and that it’s a great joke. Silly things…don’t you know, I will always catch you??!

// So far the travels in 2017 have been the year of the S–first Sweden in February, and Serbia in March!

// We took a night train to Belgrade, Serbia, to meet our friends (the same ones we went to Slovakia with last autumn) and although the city is kind of crumbling, it’s–there’s no other word for it–cool. There was a hip little bar/wine spot/cafe/restaurant/shop around every corner. You’ll find everything from flowers to WWII weapons to dinosaurs at the fortress, to give you an example of the funkiness. I also loved the food…I mean, cheese pie? Sounds weird, but trust me, it’s amazing.

Your turn! What’s your current status?!

The post Currently, March (Budapest Edition) appeared first on Amy and the Great World.

When we first moved to Budapest, I could not stop comparing it to my beloved Prague. Even though I wrote a whole post about how Budapest is not the next Prague (and that’s a good thing!), I was doing that thing I hate: falling into the comparison trap.

As time passed, I learned it wasn’t Budapest itself I was having trouble adjusting to necessarily–it was things like my job, a flat that kept falling apart, a gray winter, visa issues. The longer I’ve lived in Budapest–and now that it’s past the one year mark, I’ve lived here longer than I lived in Prague!–the more I’ve come to love it, flaws and all.

I recently decided to renew my contract, which means that E and I will be staying in Budapest for at least one more school year! To celebrate, here are 18 photos to make you fall for Budapest, too–and hopefully get your butt over here, already!

Parliament at night = glorious goulash Ria, Ria, Hungaria! Gelato + pretty building means you’re sold now, right?   probably my favorite statue in Budapest the castle in the park by our flat. NOW I’ve got ya!  Ruin pub  The incomparable Fisherman’s Bastion  the Danube gets icy in the winteralso Christmastime here is fantastic.

Danube views Chain Bridge & castle, of course!

So, when are you buying your tickets??

Linking up with Wanderful Wednesday. 

The post 18 Photos To Make You Fall For Budapest appeared first on Amy and the Great World.

Truthfully, I almost forgot we’ve been here a  year–luckily I have this blog to remind me ;). When we were living in Prague, I was practically counting down the days until I hit that big milestone, and here, it almost passed me by.

It’s interesting to read back and see the differences between my two years abroad. In Prague, I fell for the city instantly, while it took longer for me to feel as affectionate towards Budapest. I adored my job in Prague; and here, it took me a few more tries to find a job I really enjoyed. Living abroad was still a novelty in Prague, and I gushed about everything; in Budapest, the reality of living far away in a foreign culture caught up with me.

It’s also fun to go back and see the beginning of Budapest–from the gloomy days of last January, to a July spent entirely on the road, to one of the best Octobers on record, to a holiday season spent here in the city.

As it’s hit one year, I’ve decided to end the “By the Numbers” posts. While I do enjoy writing these, to help me keep track of whatever has happened in each month, I’m looking forward to finding new ways to recap my time here.

So, I give you my last By the Numbers post–and it’s a good one to end on, because it’s…

TWELVE MONTHS IN BUDAPEST: BY THE NUMBERS

THREE DAYS in Germany to see the Christmas markets–and see our friends, who were there for their honeymoon! We saw them in Frankfurt AND in Nuremberg. Spoiled!

TWO DAYS celebrating Christmas in Budapest–just the two of us, and with friends!

ONE NIGHT seeing the Christmas Carol in musical form. One of my students (a second-grader) was in it, and got me and E tickets to see him perform as a gift. Awesome, right? He did so well and I was so impressed–and gave him a free pass for all the times I had to ask him to stop singing for the love of all that is holy in the middle of class ;). I mean, he was practicing!

FOUR successful homemade cinnamon rolls for Christmas. E said they were the best he’s ever had…but he may be slightly biased, no?

ONE EVENING at the Nutcracker in the Opera House! We snagged some super cheap tickets at the last minute. It was definitely the nose bleed section–we couldn’t even use the gorgeous marble steps and had to take a back entrance, haha–but it still a great night out! It doesn’t quite feel like the holidays without the Nutcracker.

ONE WEEK staycation in Budapest for Christmas! I was worried I would regret not traveling for Christmas and New Year’s…but I didn’t.

SEVERAL stunning sunsets snapped when I’m just getting home to our place after work.

LOTS OF TIME making our place even cozier. I’m obsessed with this random house decoration I found in Germany.

TWO HOURS meeting a fellow blogger, Natalie, for coffee! I love when I people I’ve connected with online visit my city…and vice versa. She definitely has me considering South Africa for my next big trip!

THREE HOURS having coffee at the beautiful New York Café, supposedly the “most beautiful café in the world.” It’s definitely fancy (and pricey!).

TEN freezing days. It’s been so cold here–the coldest it’s been in years–and I’m kind of loving it! The Danube even had ice floes…excuse my crappy photo but I couldn’t resist snapping one.

ONE big snowstorm–finally! Sadly after Christmas but…I’ll take it.

How was your month? 

Eleven Months in Budapest // Ten Months in Budapest // Nine Months in Budapest // Eight Months in Budapest // Seven Months in Budapest // Six Months in Budapest // Five Months in Budapest // Four Months in Budapest // Three Months in Budapest // Two Months in Budapest // One Month in Budapest // Three Months on the Road // Twelve Months in Prague

The post 12 Months in Budapest (By the Numbers) appeared first on Amy and the Great World.

The eleventh month has been a whirlwind, in the best kind of way–because it’s almost Christmas!

Eleven Months in Budapest: By the Numbers

ONE NIGHT in the little town of Eger, Hungary! We had to visit their little Christmas market while we were there, of course.

FIVE (ish) glasses of wine in the cellars Eger’s Valley of Beautiful Women, aka Hungary’s wine country. The cellars are right next to each other so you just walk in-between, sampling as you go.

FOUR visits to the local Christmas markets so far, not counting the smaller ones in parks I’ve randomly stumbled upon. And it’s just the beginning!!

TWO (very light) dustings of snow. Can you see it?

SEVERAL (more than I’d care to admit) hilariously awkward interactions with co-workers this month. I’m not sure what my deal is right now, but pretty much every time I’ve spoken with a Hungarian adult lately, and it’s turned weird quickly. This one made me laugh, mostly because it was in response to a long email of mine asking about fifteen questions.

THREE HOURS celebrating Friendsgiving with some friends and a co-worker of mine. Of course I only took a picture of the flowers our friend gifted us, but it was a great night and E, the main cook of the event, did a spectacular job!

LONG DAYS working at my job. In some ways, this is the best time of year to be a teacher: fun Christmas lessons, gifts from the kids, a decorated school, happy people. In other ways, it’s also the worst: kids are insanely hyped up with excitement and sugar, the schedule is a mess, a lot of teachers/students are sick, and there is so much going on that it begins to feel stressful.

This kid has some big wishes from Santa: including laser vision. 

MANY DAYS where the temperature is getting truly cold (cold enough, I think, for snow, so let me just ask: where is it?!??) but this also means the coziness is going off the charts.

THREE Christmas-themed donuts from our new favorite donut shop, the Donut Library (please excuse my horrid phone picture…).

ONE jury-rigged Christmas tree in our flat! (Aka a bunch of branches that we shoved into a bucket, that E wrapped to look festive).

TWO HOURS at a festive trivia night, which needed holiday outfits, of course (okay, I’m not particularly festive in plaid, but it was a Scottish bar so I still earned some points).

Ten Months in Budapest // Nine Months in Budapest // Eight Months in Budapest // Seven Months in Budapest // Six Months in Budapest // Five Months in Budapest // Four Months in Budapest // Three Months in Budapest // Two Months in Budapest // One Month in Budapest // Three Months on the Road // Twelve Months in Prague

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So, I enlisted my husband to help me. We have this travel game we play, where one of us will say two locations, and the other has to choose which one they want to visit most. As you can imagine, this game doesn’t really have an ending, and it’s not black-and-white, so I came down to two choices: Prague or Budapest.

It might be cheating to write about 24 hours in the current city I’m living in, but I haven’t given Budapest much love on this blog yet, so I couldn’t resist!

(For more about Prague: 5 Day Trips from Prague, a Prague Bucket List, A Guide to Teaching English in Prague, and my Love Affair with Praha).

24 HOURS IN BUDAPEST

The first thing you must do is hit up Deryne Bisztro for breakfast. It’s a bit out of the way but so worth it.

After breakfast, take a walk up Castle Hill and head to Fisherman’s Bastion for the best views of the city you’ll be exploring for the next 24 hours!

Visit the Matthias Church, since you’re right there after all. It’s gorgeous.

Head to a fancy café for lunch/coffee. I love the Alexandria Bookstore on Andrassy avenue, but the New York Café is billed as the most beautiful cafe in the world if you’re up for the prices that go along with that tagline. If you’re not in the mood for fancy, head to Ruszwurm, supposedly the oldest café in the city, and conveniently right next to Matthias Church and Fisherman’s Bastion.

Take the metro to Varosliget (City Park) and walk through, making sure to visit the Vajdahunyad Castle.

At the other end of the park, hop into the Szechenyi Baths for a relaxing soak and spa treatments. There are tons of other baths in the city, like Gellert Baths and Rudas, but Szechenyi is literally in an old palace. How could you go wrong?

After a soak, head back to your hotel/Airbnb for a quick clean up. Then…

Head to DiVino Wine Bar for pre-dinner glass of Hungarian wine–spoiler alert, it’s delicious–and a gorgeous view of St. Stephen’s Basilica.

Walk along the Danube to see the Budapest skyline showing off at night, especially the Chain Bridge.

Eat a late dinner at Menza for traditional Hungarian with a twist.

Save some energy for at least one ruin pub! Ruin pubs are one of my favorite things about Budapest. Szimpla is the most famous, and a must, if only to sit in the bath tub. My favorite is Anker’t. Here’s a list of more here. Most of the pubs are close to each other, in the 7th district, so it’s easy to hop between them.

Budapest turns all the lights out at midnight, but really the party is just getting started, so you can stay out all night if you want. My teacher schedule usually has me in bed by midnight, so I’m not an expert, but try out Doboz–a ruin pub and a club in one!

Go home, knowing that 24 hours in Budapest was just enough to leave you wanting more.

Have you been to Budapest? What would you squeeze into these 24 hours, if you could?

The post 24 Hours in Budapest appeared first on Amy and the Great World.

The first six months in Budapest were very difficult for me–unexpectedly so–and I couldn’t drum up enthusiasm to come back. Living here for six months before leaving again didn’t give us a lot of time to develop that much attachment, and add in the fact that we were moving to a new neighborhood that I was unsure of AND I would be starting yet another new job…this new beginning didn’t bring the excitement of adventure I usually feel.

It was one of the few times in my life where staying somewhere (in this case, America) was sounding more appealing than going. Seeing all of our friends and family members made it even harder to leave.

A few months after returning, though, and I’m so grateful I gave Budapest another chance. I love my job, I love our place, I love the city, I love the exploring we’ve been able to do, I love that we are making new social connections, and we’re at the tail end of one of the most glorious autumns of my life.

One thing that really struck me recently is how much it’s starting to feel like home here, both the city and our flat. I never thought I would feel “at home” in a city where I don’t speak 95% of the language–but I do.

E and I apparently had an unspoken agreement when we moved in that we would really settle into this apartment–and that included buying things we haven’t had the inclination for in years. We never discussed any of it–usually any purchase that isn’t a strict necessity has been heavily debated in the past few years–we just did it. We bought it. Stuff like cozy blankets and actual kitchen supplies and candles.

I seriously cannot stop buying candles.

What’s funny about all this is that just recently I realized that we are only in this place, and I’m only in this job, until June. Of course, the chances are good that we could stay another year–or even longer–but it’s only official until the end of this school year. Either we stay, we have to find a way to squeeze in my beloved kitchen scale (…who am I?), or we leave our already furnished place more well-equipped than before.

I can’t imagine staying here, or anywhere, really–settling anywhere has always been a vague “someday” sort of thing, or a fun way to dream about living in my ultimate places…but as I light one of my many candles and eat some amazing soup E made in our functioning kitchen, I also wonder if maybe this could be home.

And maybe I’m ready for a home, more than I ever thought I could be.

Crazier things have happened.

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