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Today I take you to Egypt, a country I desperately wanted to visit since I was a little girl.  While in Egypt a profoundness swept slowly over me and settled down in my soul.  Driving through streets I saw camels walking next to cars, history amidst a modern urban scene, pyramids behind tall buildings, and all of this meshed into one moving body of old and new, rich and poor.

We were told there was a trash strike taking place in the city.  Whether or not there was an actual strike is debatable.  Some people told us it was a ruse to cover up the overflow, but either way, the city seemed very smoky as copious amounts of trash were burned.  Combined with a layer of car pollution, there was a haze hovering over the city and its seemingly neutral, often unfinished, sand colored buildings dotting the landscape.

When you peel back the haze, when you enter the sand colored buildings, something different emerges.  We learned that Egyptians leave the outside and tops of buildings unfinished, lavishly decorating the inside and adding floors as children get married.  How presumptuous of us to assume these buildings were unfinished.  These buildings were just what the people living there intended them to be!  It makes sense in a harsh desert climate to not worry too much about how the external appears, focusing more on the internal.  How profound when you consider the philosophy and deeper meaning that leads to.

There was a moment when our bus stopped and I looked out my window.  I saw a girl, about my age, with only her face uncovered.  We met eyes for a moment and she smiled shyly at me.  I instantly felt all the cultural distance evaporate, because it didn’t matter in that second.  It warmed my soul and the momentary connection has stuck with me since.

Our most astonishing discovery in the city of Cairo would have to be the four square-mile stretch of land where hundreds of thousands of locals, and some of the city’s poorest residents, actually live on top of a 1,300 year old cemetery.  They have built an extensive network of homes, schools, and shops within the cemetery.  Families will often lease plots above graves and the area has expanded into an extensive network.  Hundreds of thousands of people live there in what is called The City of the Dead.

Since Egypt can be an overwhelming country to take in, I thought I would share some things I wish I had known before visiting.

Safety Disclaimer

First off, safety.  I want to say that I cannot vouch for your personal safety in Egypt.  We did travel there before many of the major riots/political unrest, so I cannot attest to the current state of affairs.  It is always best to consider what is right for you and of course check your country’s current travel warnings. That being said, if you do decide to go, having a guide, or someone familiar with the county can be a lifesaver, both in your enjoyment/learning experience during your trip, and in the event of the necessity to evacuate due to an emergency.  I really trusted our guide, and he knew the right cultural protocol and way to navigate certain situations with tact.

Money

We exchanged cash into Egyptian pounds, only to find vendors asking us for the US dollar.  If I did it over, I would only bring cash in US currency and I would pack LOTS of change.  You tip for the bathroom, toilet paper, and sometimes even to get a paper towel after.  People are selling things everywhere.  Anyone who comes up to you is looking for money in some way or another.  People are friendly, but more aggressive than almost anywhere else I have traveled.  You’ll want to be prepared and have ample change ready to make your travels easier.

Dress

Egypt has a conservative dress code, especially for women, so it is respectful to cover yourself up as much as possible- at least covering your shoulders and knees.  There is a lot of sunlight coming down on you, so it is best to wear long, loose layers to stay cool and protect yourself from heat related illness or sunburn.  That being said, pack or buy bottled water and stay hydrated, especially if you’re not familiar with a desert environment!

Souvenirs/Bargaining

Bargaining is accepted and encourages!  Prices start inflated, as negotiation is expected.  Relax and have a sense of humor with bargaining.  Walking away will always get you a better deal, but I also recommend paying what you feel it is worth in the end, and not focusing or stressing yourself out too much on how much others paid or you could have saved.  As a side note, if you want an authentic painted papyrus, be sure to go to a government approved seller, so you know you are getting the real deal.  I personally think that is the best thing you can bring home!

Driving

I have been to my fair share of countries with notoriously crazy driving to outsiders.  I’ve watched as my driver in Rome got into an altercation with a moped, I’ve been in the back seat of a taxi in Tijuana, and of course I’ve driven the Southern California freeways for 15 years.  None of these compares in the slightest to the driving in Egypt.  Bottom line… do not drive yourself around the city.  I recommend organizing a small tour group or private driver BEFORE arriving, but if you decide to drive on your own, I warned you here first.

Food

The food in Egypt definitely has a Mediterranean influence, with its own twists and seasonings.  We enjoyed thick pita bread, skewered meats, falafel, vegetables, and ful medames (mashed fava beans cooked with oil, parsley, garlic, lemon juice, and salt.)  We mostly ate family or buffet style (which I recommend so you can try new things!), but of course you can find lots of variation and numerous other styles and foods.  We encountered many vegetable based dishes with unique flavorings and mixings, often in the form of mashes or pastes to be served atop bread or pita.  For dessert, I tried basbousa, which is a sweet semolina cake soaked in syrup.  I am by no means an Egyptian food expert, and I don’t remember everything we tried, but hopefully this gives you a general idea of what to expect.

Relax, and Enjoy

Take it all in.  It really is a wonderful place to visit and the people are warm and friendly. Take time to experience that and let it all soak in.

Definite DOs

Pyramids at Giza

See the Sphinx

The Citadel of Salah Al-Din

Cruise on the Nile

Visit Memphis

The Necropolis of Saqqara

The Egyptian Museum

Maybe consider:

The Laser Light Pyramid Show (so cheesy, but can be fun!)

Riding a Camel (it is not for everyone- also negotiate the price BEFORE you get on)

Admittedly, I was a bit out of my comfort zone in Egypt, but in a way that travel should put you out.  Although sometimes travel is for relaxation and familiarity, the best moments in travel are often the ones that make you uncomfortable and ask you to dig deeper and remove yourself from your comfort zone.

As we drove along at sunset one night, kids were playing in the strips of grass, camels lounging, groups of girls and boys, moms and dads, teenagers, all just hanging out together as the weather cooled down.  There was something very tranquil in it all, juxtaposed against the chaos of the city.

Each person we met in Egypt, tour guide included, was extremely warm of heart and kind in spirit.  Such a beautiful country, with even more beautiful people.  More than the artifacts and amazing history we experienced, I will always remember that about Egypt.

Happy and safe travels to you all!

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