I had trouble finding a good itinerary for Costa Rica when we were planning our honeymoon. I think many travel guides are aimed at people who only have several weeks or are going there for one specific purpose: a yoga retreat, a deep-jungle excursion, surfing camp, etc. We wanted to do as much as possible and see as much as possible in our time there, and it was hard to find the resources for that!

I honestly didn’t expect to love Costa Rica as much as I did. In fact, we loved it so much that we ended up only going there and Panama, even though we had originally planned to go to Nicaragua as well. (Note: this choice is not a reflection on not wanting to visit…Nicaragua, I’m coming for you! Someday!) We did this partly because we were exhausted after our wedding, partly because we wanted to save money on travel costs, and partly because we kept finding amazing new places to see!

Here’s our route, over approximately four weeks:

San Jose/Alajuela–1 day

Most travelers will arrive via the international airport near the capital of San Jose. Since we were heading out to the rainforest right after we arriving, we didn’t get to San Jose itself yet–just to Alajuela, the city where the airport is technically located. We came back to Alajuela several times during our trip, due to computer troubles, work time, rental car drop-offs, and to fly home. We stayed almost exclusively at the incredible Pura Vida Hotel, only about fifteen minutes from the airport. It’s a little garden oasis in the middle of a very busy city, and since we were there in the off-season, a great deal.

Tortugeuro National Park–3 days

Tortugeuro National Park was our first stop. As it was the start of our honeymoon, we kicked it off with a splurge trip to the Tortuga Lodge. The hotel itself is reasonable–and due the low season we ended up getting a night free–but the food and the transport are quite expensive, as it is located in the middle of the jungle, only accessible by boat or airplane. However, we were able to cut down on some of the food by only ordering snacks, filling up on the free breakfast, and splitting the large meals.

Although Tortugeuro is remote, it is amazing and unique. Tortugeuro is often compared to the Amazon, or even Venice, because at a certain point, the roads end and become rivers and canals. Getting picked up in a riverboat and being whisked to our lodge felt awesomely surreal. Then, on arrival, being surrounded by nearly pristine rainforest, full of howler monkeys and toucans and a huge variety of animals…it’s just wow. It was the most special place to start our honeymoon! We spent the three days we were there having coffee by the river, popping on boots and exploring the jungle, hanging out on our patio and watching rainstorms, and visiting the shores of the national park to try to catch sea turtles laying eggs.

Dominical–8 days

We took advantage of a buy-7-days-get-1-free deal at this amazing Airbnb (traveling in the off-season for the win!) and spent eight glorious, relaxing days at a villa with a view of the jungle and the ocean. We had rented a car for this part of our journey, which is necessary to get to this place, but so worth it! We drove around to nearby beaches, went whale-watching, and spent hours on the incredible balcony simply soaking up the view.

Manuel Antonio National Park–day trip

From Dominical, we took a day trip to Costa Rica’s most famous (and most visited) national park, Manuel Antonio. We paid for a guide and it was necessary, we would have missed almost all the wildlife he showed us! We saw so much, including monkeys, sloths, lizards, crabs, bats, and a variety of insects (which perhaps were not my favorite). The guides all have a telescope to give you a better view, and will help you take pictures through this, too. The main trail takes you to beautiful beaches that have certainly been discovered–both by humans, and by the raccoon-monkey gangs that have taken over the park. “The Mafia,” our guide called them!

Playa Avellanas/Tamarindo–3 days

We stayed at a little treehouse/cabin near the secluded beach, Avellanas. The sunsets there might be the most magnificent you will ever see. Near Playa Avellanas is likely the most famous beach in Costa Rica, Playa Tamarindo (or Tamagringo). Tamarindo is very developed and full of expats, it’s true, but it’s a fun beach to visit, with a large variety of activities and great restaurants.

Guachipelin–5 days

We stayed for five days at the Hacienda Guachipelin. We chose this hotel because of its “Adventure Day,” its closeness to Rincon de la Vieja National Park, and the hot springs on site. The “Adventure Day” was a great way to save money while still doing some of the adventure activities Costa Rica is known for. So, in one day, we went zip lining, horseback riding, and river rafting. It was a really fun day–although I discovered that I still do not like horses and now, apparently, I’m allergic to them. Despite that small hiccup, the day was a success!

The greatest things about this hacienda are the hot springs and the waterfalls, all located on the property. We’d hike to a waterfall in the morning and wander down to the hot springs in the cooler evenings. Honeymoon perfection–adventure and relaxation!

Monteverde–6 days

It’s hard to pick my a “favorite place” in Costa Rica…but I fell hard for Monteverde. The misty cloud forest, the slightly cooler air than the rest of the sweltering country, the feeling of being in a friendly mountain town, the many activities, the delicious food…I could have moved there, and we ended up staying three days longer than planned! We stayed at the Arco Iris Lodge, which is a great budget-friendly option in the area. It’s also adorable–I loved our little mountain cabin! You MUST eat at the Orchid Cafe–we ended up eating there at least once a day, for breakfast, lunch, or for coffee/dessert–and TacoTaco.

Curichanca Reserve–day trip

Although we planned to spend a day at the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve, it was less expensive and less crowded to visit the Curichanca Reserve, and covered the same ground. Again, we paid for a guide on this trip, and he was great. He found so many animals for us to see, including the famous resplendent quetzal (the bird everyone goes to Monteverde to see). He also led us on hiking trails to find the best views, that were not clearly marked on the map, so we likely wouldn’t have found them.

Selvatura Canopy & Hanging Bridges–day trip

There is a ton of zip lining in Monteverde, and this is one of the best in the country to do it! However, we went to Selvatura take advantage of the Hanging Bridges since I HAD to walk over a suspense bridge in Costa Rica. It’s an awesome park with beautiful views and the requisite howler monkeys to give you goosebumps.

Arenal–1 day

If I were you, I would spend more time in Arenal. However, we had spent longer in Monteverde than planned since we fell in love, and had to cut our time here short. Splurging a bit for a room with a volcano view is worth it, especially if you’re only there for a night or two, like we were. There are many eco-lodges in the area, too, which I would have preferred to stay in, but they were all out of our price range at the time.

Puerto Viejo–5 days

Just like many other spots in this country, we ended up staying longer in Puerto Viejo than planned because we loved it so much. The main reason for this is Banana Azul, this amazing hotel and beach club that’s one of the best places I’ve ever stayed at. They were so friendly, the food was amazing, I never wanted to leave the beach club, and there were even sloths on the property (which became a must for us in Costa Rica). They also have a lot of activities on the property, as well as a tour office to help you arrange tours. Puerto Viejo itself is a small town on the rural Caribbean coast, much more relaxing that the largely developed beaches on the Pacific side.

Back to San Jose (after Panama)

After popping down to Bocas del Toro, Panama, from Puerto Viejo, we headed back to San Jose/Alajuela for one last night before flying home.

GETTING AROUND

For the first few days in Costa Rica, we paid for transfer to Torteguero, round trip from San Jose. After we returned to San Jose, we rented a car through Budget. It’s fairly cheap to rent a car there, but do be warned that there is required insurance payment that will not necessarily be added to your final bill–make sure you ask about this so you aren’t surprised when you are asked to pay twice as much on arrival! Many car companies will bring the car to your hotel/hostel at no extra charge.

After we returned from Guachipelin, before Monteverde, we returned our car in San Jose. We did this primarily because we needed to stop in San Jose for logistical reasons (computer & work related) for several days, and because we had heard such terrible things about the roads to Monteverde, we didn’t want to drive there. So, from Monteverde, to Arenal, to Puerto Viejo, to Bocas del Toro, and back to San Jose, we booked transfers via Interbus or Caribe Shuttle. (They are pretty much the same, although Interbus is often cheaper and doesn’t have WiFi–but Caribe Shuttle would promise WiFi and there would sometimes not be any, anyway). There are likely much cheaper, local options–but they are largely unreliable or difficult to navigate.

I loved the freedom of having a car in Costa Rica, but I know that’s not always feasible for everyone, and it certainly wasn’t for us the entire time!  On every shuttle we met a variety of backpackers and other couples traveling, and most agreed it’s the way to go in Costa Rica. However, if you’ve spent time navigating the local system successfully, please share!

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So there you have it, our general itinerary in Costa Rica. I’m sharing you the itinerary I wish we had done without the extra weird stops, so you can learn from my mistakes! Of course, there are so many places left to see in Costa Rica, and even after over four weeks I feel like we just started delving into this gorgeous, complicated, peaceful country.

Isn’t that always the way?

Linking up with Travel Tuesday. 

The post A Costa Rica Overview appeared first on Amy and the Great World.

I will have to write a long essay about my current emotional state regarding all these changes, and won’t that be fun??, but first, let’s discuss…

THREE MONTHS ON THE ROAD: BY THE NUMBERS 

THREE WEEKS in Costa Rica. I can’t even begin to cover everything we’ve done, really!

EIGHT NIGHTS (total) at one of the best Airbnbs in the world.

ONE MEAL in an airplane…on the ground. This is a common thing here, weirdly!

COUNTLESS headaches as I navigate the murky waters of Apple and getting my computer fixed (yes, it’s still a doorknob).

TWENTY DAYS with a car to explore! Loved our little jungle car. And although Costa Rica’s roads are just as wild as claimed, it was worth it to go wherever we wanted, whenever we wanted. 

AS MANY Pacific sunsets as we could manage!

FOUR VISITS to these hot springs near the Hacienda Guachipelin.

FIVE WATERFALLS. For swimming, for seeing, for visiting, and one even ridden down to via horseback.

SEVEN national parks visited.

SIX DAYS (three longer than planned!) in one of the best stops in Costa Rica: the cloud forest of Monteverde.

THREE DAYS of fighting sickness…hence the reason for our extended stay in Monteverde (that and it’s amazing). Not SO bad to be sick on your honeymoon when you get to snuggle up in a cute little cabin though, right?

ONE NIGHT with a volcano view.

SIX NIGHTS on the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica.

THREE NIGHTS at the incredible Banana Azul. A home away from home!

ONE Caribbean sunrise.

TEN (at least) hanging bridges crossed.

SEVEN sloth sightings! Including one baby! Which was too far away to get a good picture, but I will certainly remember it for.EVER.

One Month on the Road: By the Numbers
Two Months on the Road: By the Numbers

Now, tell me…how was your month?! Since I missed out on fall, my favorite, share some of your best autumnal moments in the comments! 

The post Three Months on the Road: By the Numbers appeared first on Amy and the Great World.

We’ve been in Costa Rica for over four weeks now–we only have about a week and a half left! Our trip has looked rather different from it did when we first booked our tickets. Our ambitious plan was to fill our six weeks here in Costa Rica, Nicaragua, and Panama. Then, our wedding planning, a year of extensive travel, and our actual (amazing) wedding happened. We got tired and the thought of traveling around three countries at a fairly quick pace sounded exhausting, rather than exhilarating. I also did more research on Costa Rica and realized how much there is to see here! So, we’ve spent these last four weeks just in Costa Rica, taking turns between adventuring and relaxing (and working). In several days, we will head south to Panama. I’m disappointed we won’t make it to Nicaragua this time around, so we hope to visit again soon! I admit it’s unnatural for me to travel at this slower pace, but it’s really what we need.

The benefit of this is that we’ve got a much more in-depth snapshot of Costa Rica than we might have otherwise. The laid back attitude and the dedication to peace at all times can be an adjustment to someone like me, who likes to know the when and where of things, but everything has worked out for us.

Costa Rica has also been, in many ways, exactly what we wanted. While my love of Europe is well documented (and is staying strong), we wanted to come to region closer to home since we planned to be back for the holidays. We also literally are not allowed in Europe yet! In addition, after a year of exploring some of the world’s greatest cities, we wanted a more adventurous/outdoorsy themed honeymoon, unlike anything we’ve done together. We’ve boogie boarded, gone in search of turtles laying eggs at midnight, spotted monkeys and sloths in the jungle, swam in the ocean at dusk, stayed in a treehouse, ridden horseback to a waterfall, swam in several waterfalls, bathed in volcanic mud, zip lined across a canyon, hiked in a misty cloud forest, relaxed on a Caribbean beach, and tubed on a whitewater river. It’s been fantastic! I’ve also learned that I’m not as brave as I think I am when booking these activities (read: zip lining), and that I’m allergic (and still terrified) of horses.

I’ll be on Instagram sharing some snaps of our time in Costa Rica and Panama over the next week, but we are also really focused on unplugging for the last days of our honeymoon. Pura vida, indeed!

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The noise // While staying in a dirt-cheap hotel near the airport on our first night, chosen solely for its free breakfast and shuttle, E insisted that he heard monkeys outside. I think I was too dead asleep to notice anything but my pillow, so I can’t fully support this claim, but I can tell you that hearing strange noises from the jungle has been our norm since then. There is a constant hum of life coming from the jungle, mostly from the cicadas (which give me serious Sichuan province flashbacks). Apparently there are more than one kind of cicada? We also have heard many birds and monkeys moving through the trees and the famous Howler Monkey, which really should be called the Roaring Monkey if you ask me (with a name like “howler” I figured it would sound something like a wolf–but I think it sounds more like an angry lion). Then, there are the storms. The crazy thunderstorms that wake me up in the middle of the night are exhilarating but also I cannot imagine sleeping through them!

The rules of the road // There are endless warnings about this when you research renting a car in Costa Rica. E and I aren’t generally the type to rent a car when we travel, except for that one awesome time my parents visited Europe and we road tripped around Austria & Germany, and usually I am pleased enough with the cheapest public transportation we can find. However, on our honeymoon, I wanted this piece of luxury, dammit! And so, despite the many warnings (there are plenty of good stories too, though!) we decided to rent a car. It’s gone fairly smoothly–and we got a very decent deal through Budget–but these roads, man. Not just insane traffic and mysterious signs, but, they are ridden with pot holes and some that are really just muddy trails. It’s been an adventure, for sure! Still, I love our cute little SUV.

The weather // Oh yes as usual I did poor research regarding the weather and it shows. I think I was resistant to the fact that I would be leaving autumn, my favorite time of the year, for the tropics. Well I did leave fall behind (don’t remind me, I’m in mourning) and I’m boiling alive. Luckily it’s rainy season (I did in fact know this one!!!) and that helps cool things down. I guess when I pictured us in Costa Rica, I saw us frolicking through the cool and misty jungle, not fighting through a muddy, sweaty rainforest. For such a thorough researcher, t’s funny that weather is always the part I forget to care about.

The food // I thought people were exaggerating when they said it was always “rice and beans or, to mix it up, beans and rice.” They weren’t. But, we’ve also had the most delicious drinks, we’ve tried new fruit and have had the best pineapple, bananas, watermelon ever, and had some amazingly fresh seafood, like tuna. So it’s not ALL beans and rice or rice and beans!

The lies // Okay this one is dramatic and mostly intended in jest. When I went to Latin America for the first time I was warned that the polite thing to do in this culture is to tell someone what they want to hear, even if it’s not strictly true/quite a stretch. Now sometimes I can get behind this, when I ask someone how I look or if they think I’m brilliant, for instance–but when I need directions somewhere? Not so much. It doesn’t help that my Spanish isn’t nearly as good as I think it is. It’s interesting how many people we’ve encountered that seem like experts in what we’re talking about–from the turtle nesting season to the possibility of whale watching to where a certain waterfall is located. I always forgive them for not knowing, though, because nearly everyone has been so sweet and friendly. Specifically, they call it “a la Tica” here, or the Costa Rican way–basically it is the goal of everyone here to  keep the peace as much as possible. I guess in a country that doesn’t have a military you can understand this value.

The diversity // Since we arrived two weeks ago, we’ve seen so many different types of animals, millions of plants and flowers, and a few too many species of insects (like a scorpion and spiders that could eat me–apparently it’s “spider season”, who knew such a horrid thing existed–and a locust the size of a bird). I have to give this country major applause for their commitment to biodiversity and preservation. We’ve criss-crossed the country (already!) and I’m amazed to spot new, different species everywhere–did you know there were two different types of toucans, at least? And cute little birds called toucanettes?! And more than one kind of sloth?! And that sloths might be the most awesome and adorable and hilarious animals, ever?!

Married life // Oh yeah, E and I have been married for almost three weeks now! Do I feel different? Hmmm not too much. But I do like seeing him in his wedding ring. We have been existing in mostly a state of bliss since our amazing wedding.

The prices // Why did I think Costa Rica was “so cheap?” And why do I always think I’m better at being frugal than I actually am? We have found some great deals, don’t get me wrong–gorgeous Airbnbs and lovely little inns and quirky little hostels. It’s the food and activities that get to me–so pricey! Luckily there are always ways, if you know where to look (and I’m learning and when I do I will share it with you!)

The hammocks //  I guess this is the country of hammocks because they are everywhere. I am loving it and I’ve become kind of a hammock connoisseur–I can instantly spot which ones will be afternoon reading/nap spot perfection.

The packing // This must certainly be the BEST I have ever packed for a trip, in terms of weight and organization. Mostly because E raided his father’s travel gear from their recent trip to Europe and he fully engaged his sometimes ridiculous love of little tubs and bags and packing cubes. I admit it has made everything so much easier, but this also means I wasn’t able to indulge my pack-for-any-contigency attitude that has become somewhat famous, er, infamous. (Oh, the sacrifices of a wife). For the most part though, I feel pretty prepared for anything–but I am already sick of the four shirts I brought and we still have a month to go!

Have you been to Costa Rica? Anyplace I need to see? Are you the type who only brings the necessities, or do you overpack?  

The post The Jungle is Loud (and Other Keen Observations from Costa Rica So Far) appeared first on Amy and the Great World.

Remember me? It’s been awhile. I would apologize but…I was busy getting married and starting my honeymoon! And then, my computer broke, so it was pretty clear that the fates wanted me to take a little break from my blog. even though I did want to do a gushy wedding post, at least. Also, just as I was trying to load photos to this post, the power went out and hence, so did my Wifi. What is up, universe?!

Anyway, I wish I could say I was back for good now, but unfortunately between the lack of internet here, a still-broken computer, and the fact that I am supposed to be relaxing and honeymooning, I can’t make any promises.

My half self-imposed half-forced break from blogging, though, has shown me how much this little corner of the internet means to me. I missed all of you! I missed writing! I have so much to share with you! So let’s get started!

TWO MONTHS ON THE ROAD: BY THE NUMBERS 

ONE PERFECT (WEDDING) DAY that somehow came together after six weeks of crazy planning and stress. Even though we were engaged for seven months, most of the work happened after we came back to the States at the end of August. I admit that by the time our wedding rolled around, I was sick of it and ready for it to be over. And then, our wedding day ended up being totally magical. All the problems and issues (mostly) worked themselves out, the sun was shining and there were some changing leaves, almost everyone we love was there, and E and I got married! Can’t forget that detail. E and I were both exhausted and figured we would be the first ones to leave. The day was so incredible, though, that I never wanted it to end, we were some of the last to leave and now I miss it! All the clichés they tell you apparently are true.

THREE HOURS taking engagement photos in Seattle with our wedding photographer, a friend of mine since we were three! E and I both hate getting our picture taken, but it ended up be really fun and she got some good ones!

ONE EVENING with most of my favorite women. Bachelorette in the house! Did we even take any more photos? This is all I got..

TOO MUCH homesickness for Prague. Homesickness is funny, isn’t it? Our wedding was fantastic and now we are on a Costa Rican adventure, so a part of me feels like I have no right to miss Prague. I’m learning that you can miss something and still be grateful for what you have.

TONS of gorgeous flowers. A family friend of E’s gave us this gorgeous bouquet to celebrate our wedding week, from her garden!, and my aunt did an incredible job with the flowers for our wedding.

ONE FLOWER CROWN worn. I don’t have my wedding photos yet so I don’t have many photos to share…but flower crown!!! I was much more excited to wear this than my wedding dress.

EIGHT DAYS in Costa Rica so far!

TWELVE DAYS of having a husband. This is him:

THREE NIGHTS starting our honeymoon at the gorgeous Tortuga Lodge and Gardens in the remote Torteguero National Park. We saw monkeys from off our back porch, saw an endangered Green Turtle lay eggs, took boat trips in the canals, were intrepid jungle explorers, slept, relaxed, and ate!

TWO humpback whales seen, one of which was a baby! Life is grand.

TWO NIGHTS, so far, at this killer Airbnb in the small village of Dominical on the Pacific coast of Costa Rica. There’s a sloth that hangs on right off the deck, views of the ocean and jungle, a bathtub you can swim in, red bananas grown on the property, and more space than we could ever need. Feeling so lucky to be able to recharge here for the next week or so!

One Month on the Road: By the Numbers

By the Numbers: Prague

QUESTION:

Have you ever been to Costa Rica? Would you go there for your honeymoon? 

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