Dear Vienna,
I’ve been putting off posting about you for a while because I’ve been dying sick for over a month now, and because I’m afraid I won’t have the words.
Even you might find this interesting, Vienna, as I definitely talked a lot while we were there (mostly to E…he’s a lucky man). Most who know me will agree–I rarely run out of words when I’m given the opportunity to speak.
I’m worried I won’t have the words to describe you as a city, because to be honest, we didn’t connect that well. I’m still not sure why, because I was completely charmed by Salzburg and I was in love with Hallstatt before I even arrived.
Don’t take it personally, Vienna, for you have many wonderful things that I (and many, many others) love. Gorgeous architecture, friendly people, horse-drawn carriages, grand and unique cathedrals, great food (including possibly the best meal I’ve had so far in Europe, except maybe in Paris), and coffeehouses that I still dream about.
Yet, when family members or friends who may be visiting ask about Vienna, I recommend we go somewhere else.
There are many reasons why this is the case. Please don’t take offense, because I really didn’t hate you.
Perhaps it was because it was really, really cold while we were there, as well as dark and gray. Maybe it’s because E and I booked bus tickets on the wrong day and lost money, which led to a fight. Maybe because our pension was in a strange area of town and wasn’t very comfortable. Perhaps it’s because I knew both Hallstatt and Salzburg were on the horizon, places I’d always dreamed of seeing (especially Hallstatt).
Looking back, it probably was just my attitude. I’d come off a stressful week, I was anxious about our hastily planned trip and our hastily packed bags, I was bummed at the expensive yet not great hostel, and everything seemed so much more expensive than Prague–which is true, because a large chunk of Europe tends to be that way.
Still, I enjoyed your architecture, and the horse-drawn carriages, and hearing the famous Vienna Boys’ Choir sing just before they kicked us out of the hallway. It was great to see the Hofburg Palace, the former imperial palace of the Habsburg empire (back when Austria ruled a lot of Europe), and wander the massive grounds. One weird aspect, though, was accidentally walking into some military fair on the grounds. I was not expecting to see tanks and tents full of military technology in front of a decadent palace (while I’ve got you, Vienna, can you explain that? I’m still flummoxed).
^^see? tanks. In front of this palace.
My favorite part of your little city, Vienna, was the coffeehouses. Can we just talk about these for a minute?
Vienna, on this level we really connected. I take my coffee seriously, and so do you.
I tried one of your speciality coffee drinks, called an einspänner, that was essentially espresso and whipped cream. I savored it, surrounded by gorgeous, 19th century furniture, listening to a man play dreamily on the piano. I will recommend that everyone going to Vienna visit Café Sperl for atmosphere (piano player!), tradition (it opened around 1880, and the furnishings haven’t changed since!), and of course, the coffee.
At another coffeehouse I ordered the famous Sachertorte and a coffee beverage called a fiaker, similar to the drink I’d tried earlier but with a shot of rum. I don’t recall the name of the place–it was just one near the Hofburg that we stumbled upon–but I will recommend this traditional torte…especially with coffee!
^^Please excuse my extremely awkward face…this is the only picture I have of the torte!
In addition to your lovely coffeehouses, we ate one spectacular meal (just one because we were too busy spending money in said coffeehouses…no regrets). This restaurant, Gasthaus Pöschl, was recommended to me by a high school friend who stopped in Prague after visiting you, Vienna. She raved about the pumpkin kraut and frankly (because I’m…basic?) anything with pumpkin is something that catches my interest. E and I shared the tafelspitz, a boiled beef dish in broth with a side of potatoes and the pumpkin kraut. The meat was fall-off-the-bone delicious, and the pumpkin kraut was even better than I anticipated.
^^the famous pumpkin kraut.
In conclusion, I’d like to apologize. Vienna, I know I will not love every place I visit (I do struggle with this idea, because I want to love them all), but I feel that I dismissed you too quickly. I will be back, someday, to give you another try. In the meantime, don’t change a thing about your coffeehouses…and save me some pumpkin kraut!
XO,
Amy
Linking up with Travel Tuesday!